Yes. The standard Hollow caliper (dust-cover equipped) carries a 5-year limited warranty; the track-focused Hollow Racing caliper carries a 2-year warranty. We handle all warranty claims on your behalf.

Yes — rear kits are built per car with the correct parking-brake arrangement: retained OE cable handbrake, hydraulic handbrake, or electronic parking brake (EPB), depending on what your vehicle uses. Choosing your exact vehicle resolves this automatically.

It depends on the wheel. As a rule of thumb, a 330 mm rotor needs a minimum 17″ wheel and a 356 mm rotor needs a minimum 18″ wheel — larger rotors need larger wheels again. See the wheel-clearance guide on the brake kits page, and check spoke clearance on aftermarket wheels before ordering.

Pick the size that suits your wheels, and keep front and rear the same rotor size if you are doing both axles. XYZ brake kits are engineered around a set front-to-rear pad ratio, so mixing a larger front rotor with a smaller rear (for example 356 mm front / 330 mm rear) upsets the braking balance. On 18″ wheels, that means 356 mm front and rear.

No — XYZ big brake kits are designed as direct bolt-on upgrades for your exact vehicle. In rare cases (unusual wheel designs, some OE splash guards) minor adjustment may be needed, but no permanent modification is required for the vast majority of installs.

The compound. Street pads (included) are quiet and effective from cold — right for daily driving. Sport pads use a higher-friction compound with a wider temperature window for fast road use and track days. Racing pads give maximum bite at race temperatures but need heat in them to work well, so they are not recommended for a road-driven car.

Yes. When your pads wear out you can fit compatible pads from well-known brands such as AP, Ferodo, EBC or Hawk, as well as genuine XYZ replacements.

Every XYZ caliper is forged from high-grade aluminium and then CNC-machined for precision. The kits are fully compatible with ABS.

The XYZ 6-pot caliper matches the mounting specification of a typical 4-pot competitor caliper but with a slimmer body, so it sits further from the wheel face than you might expect. Wheel diameter is still the deciding factor — see the rotor-size guidance above.

Inspect them regularly. Replace a rotor immediately if you find cracks, deformation or warping, or once it has worn 1.0 mm below its marked minimum thickness.

Yes — a 2-year manufacturer’s warranty against defects in materials and workmanship, and a defective strut is replaced with a new one rather than being sent away for a rebuild. We handle all claims on your behalf — see our Warranty page.

For most applications the ride height can be dropped by up to around 120 mm from standard, and the highest setting matches the original ride height.

Monotube. The monotube design eliminates cavitation and lag, dissipates heat better, and allows a larger internal working area — giving more consistent damping across changing road conditions.

An inverted strut flips the standard layout: the shock body sits at the top near the mount, and the cylinder sits at the bottom. It is designed for McPherson-strut applications, reduces unsprung weight, and the thicker outer cylinder gives greater rigidity — better stability, durability, and response to hard impacts.

Most applications come with a pillow-ball or rubber top mount, and most McPherson-strut kits include camber adjustability — but both depend on the specific car. Your product page lists the top-mount type for your vehicle.

They look identical, but the setup differs. Track kits run shorter springs (roughly 160–180 mm) with stiffer compression damping, because a circuit is smooth and speeds are high. Tarmac Rally kits run longer springs (roughly 180–205 mm) with softer compression but stiffer rebound, because closed-road stages have bumps, crests and potholes that would unsettle a circuit setup.

Suspension travel. Tarmac Rally kits run roughly 90–120 mm of travel; Gravel Rally kits run roughly 130–160 mm (both depending on application), with damping tuned for loose surfaces.

Yes — left and right damping should always match, otherwise handling becomes unstable and tyres wear unevenly. Front and rear can (and often should) be set differently depending on your setup goals.

Use the adjustable lower mount: thread it upwards to lower the car, downwards to raise it. We do not recommend using the spring seat to change ride height, because that alters spring preload rather than the damper position.

Keep at least 45 mm of thread engaged on McPherson-type struts and 30 mm on double-wishbone types.

Fix any ABS or brake lines into the rubber grommets supplied in the tool bag first, then attach the grommets to the supplied brake-line brackets, and the brackets to the coilover. The exact bracket position is chosen by the installer to suit the car.